Tucked away in Sankamphaeng, Chiang Mai’s famed craft district, Ban Jang Nak is more than just a woodcarving studio. It is a private museum, a sanctuary of artistry, and a serene eatery where visitors can immerse themselves in the world of traditional woodcarving while marvelling at a stunning collection of elephant sculptures.
“Ban Jang Nak” translates to “the house of many elephants” in the northern Thai dialect, explains Wareeya Wiriya of Ban Chang Nak. “It was the legendary Thai comic artist Prayoon Chanyavong who christened us with this name during his visit in 1988. Struck by the abundance of elephant sculptures here, he bestowed this name upon us.”
Chiang Mai, a city steeped in tradition and culture, is renowned for its iconic souvenirs—elephant wood sculptures. These handcrafted pieces, available in various sizes, have long been a must-buy for visitors. Carved from the region’s abundant teak wood and inspired by the majestic local elephants, these intricate works of art have symbolized master craftsmanship for over two centuries.
Yet, a closer look reveals a common theme: many of these sculptures depict elephants in static standing or walking positions, often rendered in bas-relief and low-relief styles. They emerge from a similar artistic mould, adhering to a conventional aesthetic.
To encounter an elephant of a different feather—one that truly stands out in the herd—one must venture to Ban Jang Nak. Wareeya is the daughter of Phetch Wiriya, revered as Sala Phetch for his mastery of wood carving. While Phetch and his artisans meticulously carve elephants in the studio, Wareeya adeptly manages the museum’s operations. Ban Jang Nak welcomes visitors from all walks of life, from schoolchildren on educational excursions to esteemed guests such as world-renowned architect Frank Gehry.
Concealed behind a swaying wall of bamboo, Ban Jang Nak exudes an irresistible charm. The two-story traditional building houses Phetch Wiriya’s remarkable collection of masterpieces, while an adjacent structure offers a tranquil coffee shop and eatery. In the spacious backyard, skilled craftsmen breathe life into wooden sculptures, their chisels rhythmically shaping each piece.
Facts and Fine Details
“My father was a devoted student of Kru Kham-ai Detchduangta, a revered master woodcarver from Lampang province. As his apprentice, he dreamt of making a livelihood from wood carving, mastering every technique required to excel in the craft,” says Wareeya with pride. “Yet instead of replicating the conventional elephant carvings so common in the market, he aspired to create something truly distinctive.”
Chiang Mai’s history is deeply intertwined with elephants, marked by both harmony and hardship over the centuries. For Sala Phetch, crafting wooden elephants is more than an art form—it is a tribute to these revered creatures. His works meticulously capture their essence, from their patchy, rugged skin to the soulful gaze in their eyes and their natural, fluid movements.
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Within Ban Jang Nak’s museum, visitors encounter an extraordinary array of Sala Phetch’s sculptures. Each wooden elephant, whether a playful calf or a formidable bull, is imbued with unique character and motion, reflecting lifelike postures and expressions that set them apart from conventional carvings.
“Sala Phetch’s elephant sculptures are a testament to authenticity,” notes Wareeya. “Ban Jang Nak pioneered this distinctive approach, elevating elephant woodcarving into a true art form.”
Artistry in Action
Beyond being a repository of artistic treasures, Ban Jang Nak invites visitors to experience traditional woodcarving firsthand. Guests can wander through the studio, converse with skilled artisans, and witness the meticulous process of transforming raw wood into exquisite sculptures.
Sala Phetch’s relentless pursuit of excellence has led him to innovate beyond traditional materials. In response to the dwindling supply of teak, he experimented with locally sourced ironwood—a notoriously hard material that, despite its challenges, yields breathtakingly intricate carvings with natural hues. Additionally, he pioneered the use of natural salt for dyeing wood, ensuring enduring colours free from harmful chemicals.
“At Ban Jang Nak, we obsess over every detail,” Wareeya emphasizes. “Each sculpture is assigned a unique serial number, allowing buyers to trace its history, from the craftsman who carved it to its creation date.”
Today, Ban Jang Nak’s sculptures grace craft shops worldwide, with collectors continually expanding their personal troves. Many owners, deeply attached to their pieces, send them back for restoration after years of admiration.
“It’s heartwarming to see our earlier works return to the studio, even if only for a brief reunion,” Wareeya shares with a smile. “It speaks to the lasting value and affection our patrons hold for these creations. We meticulously restore each piece before sending it home again, preserving the artistry of Ban Jang Nak for generations to come.”
Travel Information • Address: 56/1, Moo 2, Buakkang, Sankampaeng, Chiang Mai 50130 • Hours: o Monday–Friday: 8 am – 5 pm o Saturday–Sunday: 9 am – 5 pm • Phone: +66 86 920 9599
